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From the archives

Operative Words

Behind the campaign curtain

Snuffed Torch

Can the Olympic myth survive?

Lax Americana

What happens if Donald Trump returns to the White House?

Sarah E. Tracy

Sarah E. Tracy is working on Delicious, a forthcoming history of MSG and umami.

Articles by
Sarah E. Tracy

The Mess

Deconstructing the institutional food menu September 2020
I met the chef Joshna Maharaj in September 2012. It was a team-building exercise: a day-long retreat to the University of Toronto’s Hart House Farm in Caledon. We were researchers gathered for the start of a fellowship year, and we were there to think about food. Maharaj was there to help us make some. Her…

Fake and Forgotten Foods

Satiating our ceaseless hunger for authenticity January | February 2020
The future is on our minds. And the future seems fraught. Lenore Newman’s Lost Feast: Culinary Extinction and the Future of Food and Benjamin R. Cohen’s Pure Adulteration: Cheating on Nature in the Age of Manufactured Food bookend a growing anxiety about eating while modern: What do we really know about what we…